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	<title>Comments on: That Worthless UL Label</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.johndearmond.com/2008/11/24/that-worthless-ul-label/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.johndearmond.com/2008/11/24/that-worthless-ul-label/</link>
	<description>My little pothole on the information superhighway</description>
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		<title>By: Nicholas</title>
		<link>http://www.johndearmond.com/2008/11/24/that-worthless-ul-label/comment-page-1/#comment-194</link>
		<dc:creator>Nicholas</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Dec 2008 04:31:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.johndearmond.com/?p=568#comment-194</guid>
		<description>Ugh, sorry, wrote that comment to the wrong post.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ugh, sorry, wrote that comment to the wrong post.</p>
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		<title>By: Nicholas</title>
		<link>http://www.johndearmond.com/2008/11/24/that-worthless-ul-label/comment-page-1/#comment-193</link>
		<dc:creator>Nicholas</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Dec 2008 04:31:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.johndearmond.com/?p=568#comment-193</guid>
		<description>Oh, of course, there&#039;s another option. You could also connect a buck or boost (or buck/boost, etc.) regulator to the battery pack. That has the advantage of giving you consistent brightness regardless of the battery voltage, and allows you to arbitrarily increase the battery voltage (within the input limits of the regulator). It has the disadvantage of being less than 100% efficient, although you can achieve 95% if you try.

The even slightly more clever way to do it would be to use something like the Tiny13 microcontroller and a low on-resistance FET to pulse power to the LEDs. You could have it sense the battery voltage and adjust the duty cycle to give you consistent brightness as the batteries discharge, but without the need for an inductor, since you really don&#039;t need to drive LEDs with DC.

However, that&#039;s probably getting more fancy than is strictly necessary :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Oh, of course, there&#8217;s another option. You could also connect a buck or boost (or buck/boost, etc.) regulator to the battery pack. That has the advantage of giving you consistent brightness regardless of the battery voltage, and allows you to arbitrarily increase the battery voltage (within the input limits of the regulator). It has the disadvantage of being less than 100% efficient, although you can achieve 95% if you try.</p>
<p>The even slightly more clever way to do it would be to use something like the Tiny13 microcontroller and a low on-resistance FET to pulse power to the LEDs. You could have it sense the battery voltage and adjust the duty cycle to give you consistent brightness as the batteries discharge, but without the need for an inductor, since you really don&#8217;t need to drive LEDs with DC.</p>
<p>However, that&#8217;s probably getting more fancy than is strictly necessary :)</p>
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		<title>By: neonjohn</title>
		<link>http://www.johndearmond.com/2008/11/24/that-worthless-ul-label/comment-page-1/#comment-186</link>
		<dc:creator>neonjohn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Nov 2008 10:48:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.johndearmond.com/?p=568#comment-186</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m aware of the UL forgery &quot;problem&quot; (quotes not aimed at you but at UL) but I don&#039;t believe it to be nearly the problem they claim.  Besides, there is very little incentive to do that when for a few thousand dollars, you can write your own standard to be tested against.

In the instance of this heater, I seriously doubt that three things would come together to make this a forged labeling. 1) Walmart would not investigate the approval before stocking the item. 2) the heater as a whole having a holographic label on the cord and 3) that switch having the mark molded into the body.

Finally, let&#039;s not forget that even if we assume that the marks are legit, that switch is still over 50% overloaded!  No wonder it overheated and melted.

I&#039;ve been watching the UL problem for years.  I just chose to write about it now when I had a few spare minutes.  As a neonist (someone who makes neon), I&#039;ve had a particularly difficult time with them.  Basically, they chose to issue standards about something in which they had not a clue.  I treat a UL mark as something avoid with neon equipment unless the customer demands it and I can&#039;t talk them out of it.

Then there&#039;s the whole scam of the &quot;UL approved shop&quot; but that need a whole article of its own.

thanks for commenting.
John</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m aware of the UL forgery &#8220;problem&#8221; (quotes not aimed at you but at UL) but I don&#8217;t believe it to be nearly the problem they claim.  Besides, there is very little incentive to do that when for a few thousand dollars, you can write your own standard to be tested against.</p>
<p>In the instance of this heater, I seriously doubt that three things would come together to make this a forged labeling. 1) Walmart would not investigate the approval before stocking the item. 2) the heater as a whole having a holographic label on the cord and 3) that switch having the mark molded into the body.</p>
<p>Finally, let&#8217;s not forget that even if we assume that the marks are legit, that switch is still over 50% overloaded!  No wonder it overheated and melted.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve been watching the UL problem for years.  I just chose to write about it now when I had a few spare minutes.  As a neonist (someone who makes neon), I&#8217;ve had a particularly difficult time with them.  Basically, they chose to issue standards about something in which they had not a clue.  I treat a UL mark as something avoid with neon equipment unless the customer demands it and I can&#8217;t talk them out of it.</p>
<p>Then there&#8217;s the whole scam of the &#8220;UL approved shop&#8221; but that need a whole article of its own.</p>
<p>thanks for commenting.<br />
John</p>
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		<title>By: Dave</title>
		<link>http://www.johndearmond.com/2008/11/24/that-worthless-ul-label/comment-page-1/#comment-184</link>
		<dc:creator>Dave</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Nov 2008 06:08:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.johndearmond.com/?p=568#comment-184</guid>
		<description>One possibility to consider is that the UL logo on the device very well may be forged.  Forging/counterfeiting in Asia is rampant, and it wouldn&#039;t be the first time a device was labeled inappropriately.






One wonders whether the sale of such a falsely labeled product (assuming that you could even prove it) would subject the retailer to legal action[1]?

[1] I&#039;m not a big fan of lawyers, but sometimes, the best way to get a big corporation&#039;s attention is to hit them where it hurts.  ;-)

Dave</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>One possibility to consider is that the UL logo on the device very well may be forged.  Forging/counterfeiting in Asia is rampant, and it wouldn&#8217;t be the first time a device was labeled inappropriately.</p>
<p>One wonders whether the sale of such a falsely labeled product (assuming that you could even prove it) would subject the retailer to legal action[1]?</p>
<p>[1] I&#8217;m not a big fan of lawyers, but sometimes, the best way to get a big corporation&#8217;s attention is to hit them where it hurts.  ;-)</p>
<p>Dave</p>
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